Balsams and Brevard: A Night on Tennent Mountain

With 2020 behind us we have been looking for new beginnings.

Blue skies welcomed us to Waynesville, North Carolina, as we parked in town and walked to the Corner Station for lunch. This trip is the two of us – Amanda and I. While walking through Waynesville we glance, through windows, into some of the shops. One business is the Smoky Mountain Dog Bakery. I quickly take a picture of the storefront. Amanda would very much like for us to have a four legged friend and when that day comes we will certainly be taking road trips to the mountains. It will be nice to have some first hand knowledge of some dog-centric shops along the routes I frequently take to the mountains.

Being mindful of the time, we finish our visit in Waynesville and make our way along US-276 to the Blue Ridge Parkway. The plan for this trip is somewhat of a mixed-bag. Later today, we will begin backpacking from the Black Balsam Knob parking area. We will, after hiking a few miles, find a campsite somewhere in Pisgah National Forest’s Shining Rock Wilderness. Weather websites tell us it should be a beautiful night with light-to-no wind forecast. Finding a spot on the balds, while normally something I would avoid for several reasons, seems probable for tonight.

In the morning we will return to the car, return to US-276, and I will return to the Davidson River Campground. No, I have not camped there before, but Davidson River Campground is where I hastily drove to during my visit in March of 2020 so I could hike a few miles of the Art Loeb Trail in preparation of thru-hiking it later that year with some co-workers. During that visit, I became quite fond of this area of the Pisgah district as well as the town of Brevard. This will be Amanda’s first time to either and I am quite eager to show her both. We plan to camp one night at Davidson River. Complete with larger tent, fire pit, and some well-deserved real food from Oskar Blues.

Finally Spending Time in the Great Balsams

The wait is over. After years of research and failed plans, we are about to hike some of the Art Loeb Trail and experience the Great Balsams.

Amanda is sporting her new pack. A teal colored Gregory Jade 48. Both of us are pleased with the quality and it should do a much better of job of supporting weight than my ultralight pack that she has used in the past.

This was worth the wait.

The miles we walk along the trail are some of the most beautiful miles I have ever walked. Blue sky, mountains covered in the brown-look of leafless trees, patches of dark green conifers, bright green rhododendron waiting to bloom next month, and the colorful outlook on the day that we each have. While multi-tasking, that being gazing out over the mountains while hiking a rock-dense portion of the trail, or was it taking video on my phone, I stumble and receive a small cut below my right knee. No big deal.

Just over Tennant Mountain we find a great spot to camp. Reaching into my pack I first pull out my sleeping pad. Minutes later it is inflated and I am relaxing on it against a patch of grass amongst bushes and wild flowers that is going to be our camp for the night.

Some days are just too beautiful. Some days everything plays out in a favorable way and it is difficult to imagine that life could be any better.

Our tent, the Copper Spur UL2 from Big Agnes, is set for the night. We decided, while throwing our sleeping pads and bags into the interior, that we will try to get through the night without the fly. Not wanting to waste the remaining daylight, we quickly have dinner and make some hot chocolate. As well as dessert in a 16oz can.

The sunset? Incredible as expected. The moon? Full and bright. Amanda is tired and is working on falling asleep. Me? I have my headlamp on and am night-hiking up and down Tennant, taking in the sights of the mountain silhouettes under the full moon. Once in the tent for the night, I quickly realize that the no-fly idea may have been a mistake. The bright moon is bright, of course. It is decided that the fly will now be thrown on. Amanda stays snuggled in her warm 10 degree bag while I emerge from the Copper Spur once again. With no wind and plenty of light, the fly is on and secured within minute or two.

Back inside. Warm. Goodnight.

The Most Beautiful Sunrise

Day 2. I absolutely love sunsets and sunrises. I appreciate these scenes and landscapes more than I appreciate most things and people. As most people that spend time in the outdoors, we have seen our memorable share of both. This morning’s, however, was one that will stay with me. The bright green of the rhododendron, against dark and dim mountains. Hazy peaks in the distance with bright orange and yellow peaking out of gray clouds. Amanda’s right, a few clouds can really help increase the beauty.

We have a relaxing, lazy morning in camp. Although Brevard and Davidson River are on the schedule for later today, right now we are excited to hike some more of the Art Loeb Trail and then use some of the Ivestor Gap Trail to return to the car. As we cross again over the summit of Tennant Mountain I stop to get a quick photo with a plaque that displays the mountain’s name and altitude. Ivestor Gap is as described online and topo maps. Easy.

Davidson River and Brevard

Oskar Blues in Brevard. It has become a reoccurring stop since my first visit in March of 2020. Along with Ecusta Brewing Company. We finish lunch and drive to Davidson River Campground.

The tent is up and Amanda is finishing sprucing up the interior. Making it comfy-cozy as we say. For the past ten minutes I have been collecting deadfall and piling it near the site’s fire ring. One of my favorite toys is my Gransfors Bruk small forest axe. What, at the time of purchase, seemed a mid-life crisis has proven itself quite useful and is a regular addition to all of our car-camping trips and AirBnb stops that feature fire pits. The axe makes quick work of any deadfall that was too strong to break by hand.

Amanda is not feeling well and stays inside the tent as I start a fire. Staring at the stars and sipping on hot chocolate is always grand but always grander when next to someone to share it with. Before too long I too begin feeling a little nauseous. To make matters worse, it is an unusually warm night for April. Warm air and stomach issues do not mix for me. I extinguish the fire, making sure it is soaked, stirred, and dead. Two hours pass and we still have not slept. I feel miserable. Was it the canned dessert last night on Tennant Mountain? Was it hiking out, albeit on the easier Ivestor Gap Trail, this morning without eating much? No use dwelling over it. Although we do have to drive seven plus hours tomorrow and I know that feeling sick, tired, and hungry is not an ideal situation for such drives.

“Amanda. Hey, Amanda,” I say as I gently nudge her. “Let’s go. We’re going to a hotel.”

I am not one to bail but I know tonight’s current situation is going to put us in worse condition tomorrow if we do not get rest. Luckily my cell phone service is just strong enough to slowly navigate the web. I book a room at the Hampton Inn in Brevard.

“What are we going to do with the tent?” asks Amanda.

“We’ll come back and get it all in the morning,” I reply.

With that, we depart Davidson River, and with us, only our duffels with a change of clothes and our phones are brought. The tent, bags, pads, chairs, axe, cooler, Uno cards, are all left behind.

The Right Decision

Checking into the hotel was what some would call a sobering moment. Here we were. Time and effort spent to make the trip to Brevard and show her Davidson River for the first time. Hell, it has the potential to dethrone Platte River Campground as our favorite campground. Platte River is in Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

I carry the bags up and we both collapse on the bed. Turning on the TV to distract us from our depressing condition only depresses more. We do not have cable at home. Watching TV in a hotel conjures up flashbacks to trips with parents and grandparents as a child. Reality shows, game show re-runs from what seems like the year TV must have been invented, endless cycles of what most consider news these days, infomercials, the movie Grown Ups on at least two different channels.

Before long we are passed out. This was the right decison.

The next morning we drive into Brevard. I have found the Sunrise Cafe to be a great spot for breakfast. I am excited to show Amanda this restaurant and I have talked it up. Unfortunately this turns out to be a bizarre experience. There are some interesting individuals gathered here today. One elderly man is creepily staring at a group of college girls that entered. He catches me watching him. Without shame he flashes a grin and quickly raises his eyebrows. I am ready to hit the road but there is the matter of returning to the campsite and tearing down.

All of our gear, as expected, is still at the site and untouched. Although there is much to do, we make quick work of it and are soon on the road again. All things considered, it was a fantastic trip with some unfortunate moments and a handful of lessons learned.

Final Thought

This area of North Carolina has more than won me over. Mountains, waterfalls, views, ski resorts, vineyards, breweries, fantastic local dining, tough hiking, easy hiking, wilderness, fly fishing, mountain biking, live music, unique rental properties, and the list goes on. Brevard, Mills River, Waynesville, Franklin, Sylva, Highlands. All towns that most Ohioans are unaware of. Everyone wants to go to Asheville. Asheville is the big name. I get it, I too am very fond of Asheville. These other towns in the area are gems for outdoor enthusiasts.

I know I will continue to visit here for years to come. Next time we’re at Davidson River, hopefully we do not have to bail on camp in the middle of the night.