Fantastic weather, ponies, and the tallest mountain in Virginia all made this an unforgettable trip
- Where: Grayson Highlands State Park & Mount Rogers National Recreation Area
- When: October
- Nearest town: Marion, VA, or Damascus, VA
- How many nights: 1
- Weather: Mostly sunny, high temperature near 60-F and low 42-F
TRIP REPORT: Are you looking for only the technical details? Click here!
A Six-hour Drive and Plenty of Adventure Ahead
0600. The rental car was packed and the sun about to rise as we made final preparations to depart our 310 square foot apartment and seek some wide open scenery in south-central Virginia. The traffic was light and weather already beautiful.
The plan is to drive the entire six hours this morning and be on the trail by 1300 and that plan was successful. Arriving at Grayson Highlands State Park, we paid the entrance fee and continued along the road towards the Massie Gap parking area. If you have been, or if you are researching the park, you know that the park has a dedicated lot for overnight vehicles if you have a backpacking permit. The main road also has a decent amount of parking spaces and, fortunately for us, today there were several open spots. I thought about making a U-turn and driving back to the overnight lot which I just passed but this will do.
This is Amanda’s first time backpacking! I am pleased that, so far, everything was going according to the plan. Easy parking, great weather, no signs of forgotten gear or food. She will be using my lightweight Gossamer Gorilla pack, I will be using my old Terra 65, and our shelter for this adventure will be a Marmot Limelight 2p. We are good to go.
Our planned route is to begin at Massie Gap and join the Appalachian Trail (AT) before hiking towards the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. This path would follow what is known as Wilburn Ridge, providing amazing views. Today is a very sunny day with barely any wind and temperatures that are great for an outdoor adventure.
We explore around the grassy area beneath the parking spots. Several families and pets are also here and we see them coming and going from seemingly every direction. I review a map and the GPS app on my phone before walking confidently towards one trail.
I am definitely not wanting Amanda to think I am already lost.
With that in mind, it is a good thing I have researched several maps and trails and have a great understanding of where we are and where we hope to camp tonight. Amanda did not simply agree to go backpacking on my first attempt of asking her. It was the idea of seeing the Highlands “wild ponies” that peaked her interest.
Here we are.
We made sure to find her some appropriate layers and an inflatable sleeping pad before making the trip but the rest of the gear will be items we share. Gossamer Gear instructs that the Gorilla pack can be comfortable worn at a max weight of thirty pounds. Now, the first few times I backpacked was with an older North Face 65 liter pack. I must have had well over fifty pounds in that thing. After more and more overnight trips, I learned what I did and did not need.
Amanda is very adventurous but this new experience can be a bit intimidating. She has included several comfort items that, while I have learned they are items she will not need, I understand that they are essential items for her during this first overnight in the backcountry. I am hoping that the Gorilla will hold this weight well and not cause her any discomfort. After all, it is a pack worn and well-liked by both women and men.
The AT to Wilburn Ridge
Starting out on the Appalachian Spur trail, I quickly wondered when we could expect our first encounter with these ponies. I certainly used their pictures to hype this adventure to my hiking partner.
The trail junction with the AT was now in front of us and I do not think we had hiked thirty minutes yet.We are hiking southbound. Three or so miles later I hope to find a great campsite. Although exposed sites usually offer great views and photo opportunities, they usually can be quite windy. It appears we have, for now, been spared the forceful gusts typically found when hiking over balds.
Views along Wilburn Ridge are fantastic. The fall colors are starting to show in the region. The yellow and orange, mixed about the green, contrasting with the blue sky is a sight I will not forget. Of all the photos I have taken during hikes, two of my favorites were snapped within this stretch of trail. One being the main image used for the header of this story, and the other is one of Amanda looking out at the land before her.
Another mile passes. We are off of Wilburn Ridge and continuing to hike south on the AT, in the direction of Mount Rogers. We are nearing three miles for the day. My plan was to find an exposed site along this section of trail. After researching the area and reading reports from other hikers, I was expecting to see several within the next half mile.
Finding Camp
Amanda is beginning to feel the weight of the pack. Neither of us have consumed much of the two liters of water we are individually carrying, so that is not helping. There have been zero pony sightings.
My hope is to find a site soon. It seems every thirty yards or so there is a faint trail on either side of the AT that leads to a spot suitable for camping. However, I am picky. One site has way too much space for the two of us and I anticipate there could be some late hikers taking advantage of that extra space after dark. Another site is way too close to the trail and a bit smaller than what I like. I find another one that is nearly ideal but is surrounded by pines and offers no view. Knowing that the wind speeds could increase overnight, I briefly consider this spot but decide to roll the dice. The forecast is good and does not appear to be trending towards a windy night. The only other issue is, what if further up the trail there are no available sites? Glancing back at a tiring Amanda, I am reminded that I am gambling here.
Sensing the fatigue caused by the pack weight, I suggest she take a break and remove the weight. She will remain at one of the smaller sites back in the trees and hold it for us while I hike with a purpose in search of a spot worthy of her first overnight hike.
There are a few more sites within the next five, ten minutes. Too close to the trail. Too hard of a surface. I am motivated to find a picturesque spot with a nice ground, no tree cover, and some privacy. If the spot checks all of these boxes then maybe, just maybe, she will begin to love the idea of backcountry camping and we can make this a regular activity. On the other hand, it is also the kind of site that I would prefer. During my research of this stretch of AT I saw several photos with sites that fit exactly what I want for tonight.
Stop. I turn around and retrace a few steps. Left of the AT there is a sign of a trail through some tall grass. Lets see where this leads.
Seconds later and I have found our spot for the night. It is far enough off the trail to provide privacy, flat, grass covered, and has a wide open view to the southwest with views of Mount Rogers off to my right. This is it. I initially hurry to get back to Amanda before realizing I need to leave my gear behind. My pack will be fine but, to send a clear message to anyone else that might consider this spot, I also remove some other gear and scatter items on the ground. That should do.
Amanda is relaxing, sitting on a fallen tree when I come barreling back to that spot. If I have not mentioned it before, I wear trail runners instead of hiking boots and I will typically enjoy some trail running after miles and miles of hiking. I am not crazy.
Once we are both back at the spot I found, I receive confirmation that the gamble has paid off. Fortunately, the short break without the pack had reenergized her and we are now both excited to set up camp. Her, of course, having her first experience of what it is like to hike miles from a car and find a random piece of land to call yours for the evening. For me, I am thoroughly enjoying how much fun she appears to be having.
When I first began backcountry camping, I was out to prove to myself that this was something I could do alone and could enjoy while being alone. These days I still do not mind going alone but I prefer helping others experience this and enjoy seeing them have fun in the backcountry.
Together we inflate our sleeping pads and set them aside. The tent goes up easily and I record a time lapse of us setting it up. Amanda is ready to make it cozy on the inside and throws in her sleeping bag. I had also brought an older Thermarest Ridgerest. You know, the one that rolls. We placed this outside the tent, considering it to be our couch. Sitting here and sipping on water, I think again of how much I love her. Proud, too. The idea of this hike was a challenge for her. Outside of that so called comfort-zone.
Ponies? No sight of them.
Mount Rogers and Water
Past the section along Wilburn Ridge there were mostly only overnighters and determined day-hikers. No families or small dogs out here.
Our plan is working just fine. Hike Wilburn Ridge? Check. Find a great campsite? Check. The next objective is to hike up to Mount Rogers, summit, and make a stop to collect water while hiking back to camp. We each grab an empty water bottle and I pick up the now-empty Gorilla pack.
Hiking from our camp to the summit of Mount Rogers will be 1.3 miles. We have already hiked a little over three. Prior to agreeing to join me, Amanda had made it clear that she was not interested in hiking more than five miles per day. Well, we might exceed that number.
We pass, and get passed by, several day-hikers and see other campers getting settled into their spots. The area is nice in that the camping spots are not far from the trail, but generally have enough space between them to allow you great privacy. It does not appear anyone will see or hear anyone else while on the mountain.
A larger group of hikers are up ahead. As we get closer, I see their packs on the ground and I interpret this as them taking a break. They are very large packs, no less than 60 liters with some looking quite larger. This group does not particular seem dressed for a mountain environment, although I sense that a few of them are experienced in the outdoors. They are similar in age to us. Amanda and I begin passing them by and I smile and nod. Their guy closest to the trail, wearing a white t-shirt and large, black Oakley sunglasses, does not smile back or acknowledge me.
“That’s a nice camp site you got back there,” he says in a serious tone.
Now, during all of the time I have spent in the outdoors and however many miles I have hiked in the backcountry, this remains one of the most awkward exchanges I have experienced on the trail. I play dumb and respond with a goofy, innocent smile.
“Oh yeah. It’s a great spot for our group. Great weather today.”
No reply from him. After making his comment, his Oakley-covered gaze follows me as we pass by. The guy clearly has no intention of having a friendly conversation and says nothing else. I think of a few possible reasons for his unfriendly behavior. Maybe someone in his group is not having a great time, complaining about miles and how tired they are. Maybe he is the tired one. Or, maybe, he had planned on using the same spot where Amanda and I had set our camp. Why would he say this to me so awkwardly unless being passive aggressive?
Regardless, there is no need for me to ask questions or say anything else. My reply to him was intended to set the expectation that we had others joining us at that spot. Amanda and I both agree that his tone was one of frustration. If he is indeed upset about that campsite, I feel no sympathy for him. You risk having limited options when you start later in the day or have a larger group. Plan accordingly and respect your timeline.
Alright. Drama aside, we are climbing the tallest mountain in Virginia!
This is the first true mountain that Amanda has climbed and it is a rather easy going ascent. No rock scrambling, no narrows. It is a leisurely climb. Every online resource I read prior to the trip had explained that there were no views atop Mount Rogers. It is a tree-covered summit with some large rock and its survey marker. That’s it. As expected, those reports are correct. The flora of the summit area seems to slightly differ from that of the lower elevation. I am no expert but I pay attention to these differences along trails. Maybe some day I will be able to identify plants and trees. 5,729 feet. At the summit, we take some photos, we sit, and we drink some water. Speaking of water, we need to gather some.
Descending the mountain is an easy walk and it is not long before we are at this area’s AT shelter. The Thomas Knob shelter sits on the side of Mount Rogers at a lower elevation. Several hikers are here and relaxing or inspecting the structure. Behind the shelter, and down hill, is a fence and some PVC pipe that protrudes from the ground horizontally. Potable water runs through this pipe and a small crowd has gathered to wait for their turn to bottle some. The water is cold and refreshing. Gathering two liters is easy and we are soon on the return hike to our camp.
Back at camp, water is boiling and we will soon be having some freeze dried meals with a side of instant mashed potatoes. Mini bottles of white wine are nearby, waiting to be opened. What earlier was a mostly blue sky is now While taking in the views I notice something moving below us in the distance, towards Wilburn Ridge. Ponies.
Views and Ponies
Day two. Daylight returns and I awake first. Amanda actually began to feel some cold-like symptoms in the middle of the night and is trying to get some more rest. Peeking out of the tent, I see it is mostly a clear morning. Away in the distance, clouds wrap around the mountain tops and fill the valleys in between. At our elevation, it is the type of clear morning where you can see for miles and miles. I sit outside, taking in the view and some photos. These are the quiet moments when you remember exactly why you carry thirty pounds on your back to get here.
After breakfast we begin to tear down camp. Amanda is feeling a little better. I still have not learned the ways of making coffee in the backcountry. I am not a coffee drinker but Amanda does enjoy it. Per day, at most, I would say she has no more than one cup. Maybe coffee would have helped? Ibuprofen and water will have to do.
I think of the night before and the sight of distant ponies at dusk. It had been the lure of the ponies that helped motivate Amanda to come on this trip. Although she had been enjoying herself so far I was feeling the pressure to deliver some pony action. Our packs are back on and I hand trekking poles to her as I stare towards Wilburn Ridge.
We are back on the trail. The same trail as yesterday except today we hike northbound on the AT. That first mile is quick and in the near distance I can see the area where several trails intersect. Did we hike here yesterday? I begin to replay yesterday’s route through my mind and realize I am not entirely sure. I prefer loops whenever possible and always look for every opportunity to not repeat a section of trail. Reviewing my map, I thought we were to cross through this area on both the first and second day. Maybe we did? In this moment I am unsure if I had followed the plan yesterday and we indeed were here or if we had taken a similar trail along Wilburn Ridge but missed this area. Regardless, everything is fine but the possibility of a misstep has me on alert and I cannot stop my mind from analyzing all of this.
I hear some noises and look up. There, about thirty yards in front of us, was a herd of ponies. Amanda is behind me and I see she is watching the ground as she walks and has not yet seen them. I stop and ask her to take the lead. Still oblivious to the animals ahead, she passes me and keeps watching the ground before each step. We are getting closer and she still has not said anything.
Not more than a couple steps later and it is clear she has noticed them. She says nothing.
I am confused. Should she be excited at the sight of these ponies? We have a brief talk about what we see ahead of us. I cannot recall exactly what her or I said, but she had thought they were horses being walked or ridden by humans. Realizing that they were indeed the animals we had hoped to see, she was suddenly very excited and walked quickly in their direction.
We were both excited for this moment. How neat to be on a hike in the mountains and cross paths with these animals that manage themselves and the land. Keeping our distance to the best of our abilities, we noticed more ponies further away and decided to change trails. Instead of taking the AT back to Massie Gap, we would use the Virginia Highlands connector.
Ponies, ponies, and more ponies. We see more ponies every, to my best estimate, twenty or thirty yards. The weather is beautiful and the trails are easy. This one was a win.
Final Thoughts
Back at the car, I think about each of my prior attempts to have Amanda join me. I think about all the places I had previously suggested. I am so thankful that this trip was a success.
The great weather, the easy and moderate trails, the gradual climb on Mount Rogers, the ponies, and the wonderful campsite. The fall colors. This is an incredibly beautiful region. The highlands offer such expansive views and most activities are rather easily accessible compared with other areas I have been to. There was no several mile drive on dirt, mountain roads to get to a remote trailhead.
When leaving Massie Gap we continued west on VA-362 for a short time until we reached the park’s Visitor Center. I asked Amanda if she cared if we go inside. I purchase a sticker incase I ever get one of those fancy coolers someday. As a gift for me, Amanda buys a small wooden sign with the famous Muir quote, “the mountains are calling and I must go.” Before departing the state park we stop and take a photo next to the sign at the entrance.
Amanda and I are a great team. We made this happen and had a great experience. I feel so fortunate to have a partner in life that is willing to take on challenges, try new activities, and has a passion for adventure. This has been a trip I will never forget. I understand that I often say those words following any adventure but this one was special. The feeling has more weight to it.
For me, the Grayson Highlands will always be special and will always be a place that I consider returning to annually.